How many times did they ask us to see the Torre Colón, reaching 110 metres at the end of the Rambla in Barcelona, to understand why it didn’t have a restaurant on the top floor? In the end, they stopped: there was clearly no categorical reason preventing it. But what once seemed impossible, has now come true.
The restaurant with the best view in the country, run by chef, dining room manager and director Enrique Valentí, opened little over 3 months ago. Broadly speaking, it’s a dining room seating 110 people, with an impressive 360-degree view of the city, with a sober and tasteful decor, a marine inspiration and an eclectic cuisine mostly based on seafood. After visiting it three times, I believe I’m not mistaken when I say Marea Alta will soon be the crown jewel in Barcelona’s culinary scene, and another very important element attracting international guests. A guaranteed success.
The team is directed by French Arthur Sotto who’s worked in the kitchens at Pierre Gagnaire, Le Petit Nice (3 Michelin stars in Marseille) and La Pergola (as many in Rome). He’s supported by Japanese Hideaki Yoshioka, 8 years of Basque experience (especially at Zuberoa), where he learnt to perfectly dominate the grill. Valentí is the captain of the ship, halfway between kitchen and dining room.
Chargrilled Rodaballo (turbot), a signature dish at Marea Alta
It’s very hard to define the culinary offer, given its interesting eclecticism. For sure, the most precious part is the large cuts of fish, spectacular mackerel and sole from the Sea of Cantabria, perfectly cooked
a la brasa (70 euros per kilo). Around that, you can shape your menu: fresh and tasty starters, made enhancing their great nakedness, such as the precious
percebes (22 euros) or the more elaborated mussels with a subtle aroma of grill (5 euros),
quisquillas alla plancha [a kind of prawn]), meaty and aromatic edible boletus paired with an excellent mushroom demi-glace.
Marinated stews, made current, as with the
Cap-i-pota with cod tripe, anemones and chickpeas, with a powerful jus and a gelatinous texture (19 euros). There’s even pasta! We tried the crab linguine (19 euros). The
Royal cucumber in Txakoli (30 euro) is also very rich; it is finished at the table, removing the poached egg so as to thicken the sauce: there’s the stimulating acidity of the wine, almost like the one from vinegar, and a creamy sauce. Good products and skilful cooking.
Desserts, often an unresolved issue, especially among
asadores in the north, are one of the restaurant’s distinctive features.
Enrique Valentí emphasised this part of the meal, counting on consultant
Jordi Butrón of the prestigious
Espaisucre school. There’s surely a complexity of flavours, the typical mark of
Butrón, but it’s shown in a comprehensible and craveable way, capable of seducing a larger public. And the prices are very reasonable, given the standards (around 7/8 euros).
The staff at Marea Alta posing with two famous guests: Ferran Adrià e Juan Mari Arzak
There’s a refreshing Japanese
Kakigori with notes of rosemary, lime, green apple, eucalyptus... and soaked apple dices. Cheesecake with Basque Idiazábal cheese, with pears in 3 textures and a reduction of Port. Or
Bostock, an almond tart with orange flowers, mousse of amaretto, apricot sorbet, presented in a classic/vintage way, under a dome, like in a pastry shop. And guests can prepare it to their liking.
The culinary offer is completed by the cocktails on the floor below, open every day, all day until 2 a.m.: on top of cocktails, you can enjoy tapas and small light dishes. Even in this case, the terraces offer a memorable view.
Marea Alta is a not to be missed stop for gourmet travellers who enjoy eating (well!) while giving a look at the city from high above. This is why it makes more sense to go for lunch.
Marea Alta
Avenida Drassanes, 6-8
Piso 24
+34.93.6313590
Closed on Sunday and Monday (the cocteleria is always open)
