The restaurant of young chef Javier Estévez from Madrid is increasingly relaxed. It won the “Revelation Restaurant” award at the 2016 edition of Madrid Fusion, [the second gastronomy congress in history, directed by the very Jose Carlos Capél].
The name is a play of words between casquería (the Spanish word for offal and entrails) and tasca (a rustic place), and perfectly defines what the guest will find. Using pork, veal and lamb offal, this young man makes a banquet of cruel cuisine which charms even those who deny you can give life to elegant food by using these cuts. In his hands, parts that are considered scarcely noble are turned into delicious and transgressive bites.
An accurate new take on popular recipes made with tongue, cheek and sweetbreads, dishes in which tails, nose or pork feet appear, and preparations with brain, neck or lamb guts. A universe and a profession that
Estévez learnt from one of the great masters of Madrid’s casquería, chef
Julio Reoyo. He was the one who taught him how to work with each piece: cleaning, cutting, precautions. This could all seem superfluous, but it is essential so that the cuts taste of what they must taste, without undesired flavours.
The menu is structured gracefully, and on top of the three main sections (beef, pork and lamb), there are other sections too: the first is called
Tarros (jars): these are small portions of pate and cream for those who aren’t fond of offal.
Another is called
Tarteras. It includes tripe (though you won’t find the classic Madrid style as they don’t include Asturian black sausage morcilla, but they’re very similar),
caparrones (red beans) with partridge, and
fideua [a paella made with pasta instead of rice] with outrageously rich cod tripe.
Another section in the menu is called
Varios, an eclectic field, a life jacket for those who really don’t like offal. Whatever you choose, the dishes have balanced seasoning, well made jus, neat combinations.
La Tasquería
Duque de Sexto 48
Madrid, Spain
+34.91.4511000
Dishes from 25 to 40 euros
Closed on Sunday night and the entire day on Monday
See also
Animal in Los Angeles, the temple of offal by Cristina Bowerman
The offal illegal immigrants in Milan by Gabriele Zanatta
