Francesco Arena

Francesco Arena – Mastro Fornaio

Vua Tommaso Cannizzaro 137 - Messina

The Shop of Wonders is located on the central Via Tommaso Cannizzaro, at number 137, just a few steps from Piazza Cairoli, the University, and the Cathedral. As you approach, you are immediately enveloped in an intoxicating aroma of baking, yeast, and bread... In short: the scent of goodness!

Upon entering, you find yourself in a cornucopia of delights: a thousand different loaves, brioche col tuppo, delicious Messinese focaccia, arancini, schiacciate, tray-baked pizzas, pitoni, large leavened pastries, cakes, cookies, croissants, maritozzi, panini da cena (traditional sweet Easter bread rolls), savory pastries, and even buns. Over 50 varieties. This is Francesco Arena - Mastro Fornaio bakery and focacceria.

Francesco, born in 1976, is the heir to a magnificent family tradition, now in its third generation: it was grandmother Teresa who started the first business in 1939, always in Messina, but in the Sant’Agata district, north of the city. In 1970, her son Masino took over with his bakery, which he still runs today. However, it is Francesco, her grandson, who is leading the contemporary evolution. It was his vision that led him to preserve and honor the vast knowledge he inherited while integrating it into the modern, multifaceted shop he opened in November 2020 in the heart of the city. A place that reflects his identity: «My bread is as good as it was in the past, but made with today’s techniques, capable of enhancing aromas and flavors naturally».

He starts with the simplicity of raw materials. He says: «Ancient grains, einkorn wheat, evolutionary flours, rye, rice... I love working with many types of flour, always stone-milled, giving each the attention it deserves and creating my favorite blends». These are the foundations, along with pure water and his sourdough starter («using it is like indulging in the luxury of slowness»), which he carefully nurtures, allowing long fermentation times to work their magic, giving birth to excellence. He is particularly passionate when working with ingredients that tell the story of Sicily, from Slow Food Presidia to ancient Sicilian grains, such as Tumminia and Russello: «Ancient grains preserve the history and culture of our agriculture, evoking scents, colors, and sensations that must not be forgotten. Working with them is an ethical choice that honors the hard work of farmers and millers, respects local traditions, ensures a sustainable supply chain, and delivers a high-quality product». For example, he offers an extraordinary "Grandmother’s Bread," a recipe accidentally rediscovered in Teresa Arena’s old recipe book. It is made with a blend of Sicilian re-milled semolina, Tumminia, and Russello, naturally leavened with sourdough.

During holidays and special occasions, his shop fills with panettone, colombe, and exclusive leavened creations, such as Salina, dedicated to the Aeolian Islands (made with candied capers from Salina, raisins from Pantelleria, almonds, white chocolate glaze, and pistachio crumbs) or his Modica chocolate and mango panettone, a limited edition that combines the tropical freshness of mango with the richness of chocolate (milk chocolate glaze decorated with mango jellies and cocoa nibs).

He says: «I am hopelessly in love with my land, its traditions and contradictions, its immense culinary heritage. The evolution of modern baking must be based on strong historical foundations, using and experimenting with blends of ancient grains, einkorn wheat, roasted wheat, or evolutionary flours, creating doughs that mature slowly with the valuable contribution of sourdough. I collaborate with suppliers who share my philosophy, offering raw materials from sustainable supply chains that respect the environment and the work of everyone involved. My mission is to be an ambassador of Sicilian flavors and traditions, bringing my creations across Italy whenever I have the opportunity».

Beyond production, Francesco is actively involved in training, collaborating with hospitality institutes and companies to pass on the cultural value of bread to future generations: «I safeguard an ancient artisanal knowledge, nurtured by passion and experience, growing day by day». Francesco Arena is the National Vice President of Assopanificatori Confesercenti, a member of Ambasciatori del Gusto since 2016, a member of Ambassadeur du Pain and Richemont Club Italia. He has received numerous national and international awards, has been recognized as “Best Baker” for Best in Sicily, is an Ambassador of Made in Italy, and a member of the Slow Food Chefs' Alliance.

Has participated in

Identità Milano


by

Carlo Passera

journalist born in 1974, for many years he has covered politics, mostly, and food in his free time. Today he does exactly the opposite and this makes him very happy. As soon as he can, he dives into travels and good food. Identità Golose's editor in chief