Freshly cut grass

Spring, from now on, will have for me the taste of the Polentina Verde di sciopit, with poppy seeds and wild violets by Antonia Klugmann. At Argine a Vencò in Dolegna del Collio, equally separated by Gorizia, Udine and Trieste, close to the border between Italy and Slovenia, Antonia Klugmann opened her first restaurant. Together with Romano Di Leo, her partner and the restaurant’s sommelier, she decided to buy an old fuciliera by the banks of river Judrio in Collio, an area for grape varieties such as Sauvignon, Pinot grigio, Tocai friulano.

Five tables, all in different shapes, a minimalistic and modern decor, light fir and larch wood, an embracing atmosphere, the open-view kitchen, the charming light coming from the magnificent windows overlooking fruit trees and Antonia’s kitchen garden. It takes the chef over two hours every day to pick all she needs, lots of wild herbs with which she can express herself in the best possible way, in a journey that stimulates the palate and the mind.

The Blanched beetroot with Tocai vinger is an extraordinary amuse bouche that plays on the contrast between different textures and flavours. The Valeriana di Vencò was presented last February at Identità Golose and had already raised clamour thanks to its earthy essence.

The mind keeps recalling the aroma of the herbs in the Polentina verde served in a beautiful white plate designed by Antonia (tableware are by Arte nel Pozzo) who expressively wants to recall freshly cut grass. They Raw squid with artichoke with hibiscus is equally spring-like, a refreshing dish, probably a memory of Venissa («Gianluca Bisol has already visited me here!» later said Antonia).

Pumpkin risotto “in three ways”

The austere character of the hills of Collio, however, are Klugmann’s world: the Cream of fresh nettles, wild chicory and savoury meringue recalls the sapidity of minerals and the humidity of these lands. Dishes are paired with excellent wines (it is possible to take different itineraries, according to grape variety, journey or following a boundless journey). The Gnocchetti with durum wheat semolina and cocoa with boar meat sauce and aniseed just like the Nebio pig recalls the essential role of the products and suppliers with whom the chef has always had privileged connections («You should meet my butcher, what an extraordinary person!» smiles Antonia).

However, it is with vegetables that she expresses herself in the best possible way: the Pumpkin risotto in three ways (brunoise, emulsion, purée with sour cream) is divine, while the Fennel with bergamot, with primo sale cheese from Zoff and almond sauce is sophisticated, perhaps the most interesting dish Antonia offers at Vencò.

The banks of river Judrio, after which the restaurant is named

When it comes to cakes, the chef presents Apple, potato with spices, figs and raisins, a magnificent dish, or she plays with a sober and digestive end-of-meal, again very earthy, such as the Mandarin sorbet, with liquorish gelatine, cocoa and vanilla. Supremacy of product seasonality and vegetables, rigour, research and plenty of talent can be found in Antonia Klugmann’s new restaurant: chapeau!

L'Argine a Vencò
Località Vencò 15
Dolegna del Collio (Gorizia)
+39.0481.1999882
info@largineavenco.it
Closed on tuesday
Average price à la carte: starters 13, first courses 18, second courses 18, desserts 10 euros
Tasting menu 70 and 58 euros