Ruinart, discovering Champagne Rosé

Frédéric Panaïotis, chef de cave at Maison Ruinart, shows a picture of an ancient document: «See, this is the first shipping note of a wine which in the days was called Œil de Perdrix, but in fact was the first Rosé. It’s dated 1764».

Champagne Ruinart Rosé is the protagonist of Identità di Champagne. A product with ancient origins but a modern and vital life. And the three chefs who took part in the first day are equally modern and lively: Caterina Ceraudo, Simone Padoan and Marco Sacco.

Panaïotis pointed out how the philosophy of Ruinart is well depicted in the Rosé too. «Our wines are characterised by Chardonnay, because it’s more elegant than Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. We decided that Chardonnay had to have an essential role even in the making of our Rosé, so much so we use almost 50% in the blend for this wine». In the case of the champagne tasted today, it was made mostly with wine from the 2013 vintage (but also with reserves from 2011 and 2012), Chardonnay is 45%. To this they add Pinot Noir and some 20% red wine (in the case of this bottle it’s 16%). «The red wine - Panaïotis points out – is not any ordinary product, but a Pinot Noir from a Premier Cru vineyard, made with a “light” vinification in view of making a Rosé».

Technical notes aside, Rosé is a "rich", versatile wine, suitable for many pairings. As shown in the first meeting with the chef: the journey of Maison Ruinart’s Champagne Rosé arrives in Calabria, in the vineyards of Strongoli, the home to Caterina Ceraudo. The young and talented chef from Ristorante Dattilo presented a Viaggio tra i vigneti [Journey among the vineyards] which is the name of the dish created as a pairing with Champagne Rosé. «This dish is born after studying champagne, but it’s also a way to make people taste the place where I live, my home. I wanted to work with what I love: cooking, wine, the vineyard, family».

This is why she chose Podolica meat, a common breed in Calabria, and roses, which you can find in every row of vine. The meat is left to marinate with dry roses for three days. «I tried to represent human work too, pruning, the scent of humus and earth. Because there’s more to Calabria than the summer heat, but also the rain in other seasons. Then there’s Jerusalem artichoke, which is like bark, and sorrel, which can be found in the vineyards». There’s also raspberry oil, to highlight the natural sensations from the rose marinade, and coffee: «A tribute to people working in the vineyards drinking coffee before they start working in the morning and during their breaks». And the pairing with Ruinart Rosé was extraordinary.

Pizza and champagne is a pairing that is becoming fashionable only now. Perhaps it was less so in 1999, «when we organised the first event of the kind – says Simone Padoan, patron chef at I Tigli in San Bonifacio, near Verona – it was not the same». For sure, Padoan’s pizza is not a simple one. «Pizza is the basis for my cuisine – says the talented Venetian chef – but my idea has always been to do something extra, to change this world». Old times, before gourmet pizza was born. «I tried not to talk too much but to leave the talking to what we do in our restaurant». Daring, in a way. And the pairing with Champagne Ruinart Rosé was also daring, by Padoan’s own admission: «Rosé has scents of citrus fruits, grapefruit, with a delicately bitter finish. So I started from the idea of using pigeon and cabbage, lemon zest and vermouth, to add a spicy note». All this on a beautiful pizza base, of course. A daring yet successful pairing. And much appreciated.

The freshwater chef, Marco Sacco, closed the first day at Identità di Champagne. He also chose to be daring, as Champagne Rosé, though versatile, could have been overwhelming with a freshwater fish. But Sacco, two Michelin stars at Piccolo Lago, on Lago di Mergozzo, an hour drive from Milan, presented trout. «We chose to respect this dish, which is very delicate, by putting it in hot water, closed in small sachets, for 20 minutes. Hence it is cooked-non-cooked, soft and not stringy». To this he adds a taste “enhancer” a sort of sour cream made with butter, shallot, currants and cream, with a drop of Champagne Rosé, later blended and strained. A perfect pink pairing.
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso