My Rome - part two

(see part one)

A pizzeria I often go to and with pleasure is La Fucina. It is very rare that a restaurant would generate so many discussions with regards to the necessity of finding a term that would define it, I believe. For purists, rather than a pizzeria, this is a focacceria (in the sense that ingredients are placed cold, on a base that could be defined as a focaccia). Someone, with a didactic approach, has gone as far as to define it as a place in which high quality raw materials are placed on a leavened disk of water and flour. That day I thought that if someone would define my Ravioli di parmigiano, which don’t have the shape of ravioli, as «two small disks of egg and flour made to contain a Parmesan cream which in case they weren’t there would spread over the plate», I couldn’t care less. Why should one deprive people of the joy of niggling – whatever you may wish to call it, do visit La Fucina and enjoy your evening.

Do you have in mind those Roman youngsters, the ones that look like they’d be in a filmby Pasolini? With a sharp yet sincere face, a large nose, a protruding abdomen? Up to 30 years ago they would have become boxers on the ring of the Festa de Noantri. The presenter would have began by shouting «On the blue corner, representing Palestra Audace Er Lesca de Portaportese, and on the red corner, for Palestra Indomita Er Faina de Piazzale Dunant…» the audience would have shouted, mothers would have insulted each other, holding against one another their respective job as entertainers of the Roman night scene. The youngsters would have been called Spartaco and Nando.

Now, after 30 years, these guys are fed up with the fights (se so stancati de menasse). Their faces are always the same but perhaps they are now called Davide and Roberto. And perhaps today they are good chefs and their restaurants, Osteria Fernanda and Osteria di Monteverde, are two fun establishments in Rome. I don’t know if they have invented a new way of working in the restaurant scene, I don’t know if anyone has been capable of doing so over the past century, I simply think that these are two restaurants that keep up with the times and happily mix Roman tradition and innovation.

Another place I like to visit at lunchtime is Tastevin (via Menotti 16, +39.06.3208056). Half-hidden in Prati, it employs Paolo’s culinary talent. The setting is informal but you can happen to meet some manager having a business lunch or a young student during his lunch break. The most disguised of those you might happen to notice is Daniele, the owner. He’s always got the expression of someone saying «sorry, I’m new here, this is my first day» and he’s so good at it that even if you come back 10 times and recognise him, you’ll always be in doubt that perhaps the other times it wasn’t really him. Instead, do trust him and listen to his recommendations: despite everything, he’s good and knowledgeable. Oops, I’ve almost finished my character count.

I hope no-one was offended if I haven’t mentioned him and most of all if I have, I would have liked to speak of Salotto Culinario, Pipero and Arcangelo (via G.G. Belli 59/61, +39.06.3210992), of Fata Morgana’s ice-cream and of Bottega Liberati, Pomarius and Er Cimotto, Settembrini and Open Baladin… You know what, Paolo: I’ll write next year’s article as well and if somebody else will do it, whoever you may be, please don’t forget to speak of me.

(2. The end)