In France, which means in Paris, there are changes taking place. It is a slow process that has been going on for quite some time and does not affect only the so called interpreters of the celebrated bistronomie, that is to say the attentive disciples of Inaki Aizpitarte who have left the most original kitchens in Europe in order to try and follow their own creative way. Even the big names in French cuisine have begun an interesting journey that aims at offering new formats or at re-launching traditional cuisine with a more modern clientele.
Granted that we’re talking of Paris, a city that enjoys a substantial tourism flow all year round (and therefore with a client basin that is much wider and varied when compared to most European capitals) it is worth giving a few examples.
One of the dishes at Frechon’s Lazare: Saint-Jacques placed on a bed of rice au pistou
The first, and one of the most interesting ones, is
Lazare, the new
brasserie (it opened in September 2013) by
Eric Frechon, starred chef at the
Bristol and at
Palais. Located inside the renovated and bright
Gare Saint-Lazare, the restaurant, seating over one hundred people, has quickly become one of the Parisian points of reference when it comes to eating well at moderate prices (bear in mind that this still means preparing to spend around 50 euros), thanks to a rich, tasty cuisine, capable of offering sincere and very “French” dishes in a more casual setting.
The menu, organised as a newspaper page, called “
Les Petites Annonces de la Semaine” states the dishes of the day, such as
Quenelles de brochet with nantua sauce, the
Fowl fricassee, the
Boeuf Bourguignon and the
Brandade of cod au gratin. Not counting some more gourmet-style delicacies, such as the
Escargot au gratin with tomato, the
Seven-hour cooked lamb (confited with lemon and olives), the classic
Saint-Jacques au pistou (with the surprise given by the scallops served on a bread of rice with pistou!), or the sensual desserts, such as
Crepe suzette or
Ile Flottante with violets.
Escargot au gratin with tomato
We were there on a Tuesday night, seven months after the opening, and there was only one free chair at
Lazare. The endless dance of the waiters, in the dining room (with some difficulties due to the tables being very close to each other) made it clear that over here the economic crisis is only a distant memory, if not something even fastidious to remember. And
Lazare is open all-day, from breakfast to the afternoon tea, including after dinner, given that the bar counter that can be noticed when entering both from the train station or the little square outside, invites one to take a break.
The wine list (in which it is virtually impossible to remain under 30 euros per bottle) recites a list of names that are more typical of a great restaurant than of a brasserie (I can’t recall many brasseries offering
Margaux Cantenac-Brown or
Batard-Montrachet…), but one could also set on less expensive drinks such as a cider from Normandy signed by
Le Pere Jules or the
Pelforth Brune beer.
1. to be continued
