Alexandre Mazzia, three-Michelin-starred chef in Marseille, closes one of his multi-course sequences with: Smoked and seared blue lobster tail and claw, watercress, herbaceous shells, head and claw jus; then Marinated scallop, smoked cress, beetroot, scallop milk and granité; finally Razor clams, puffed barley, salty and seaweed condiment, egg nog. Photo by David Girard